Perfek vir die winter! Brei lang sokkies met jacquard-patrone

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Dis weer mode om wolsokkies te brei en ’n lekker uitdaging. Lees die patroon baie sorgvuldig deur voordat jy begin brei en gaan kyk op YouTube hoe om die verskillende tegnieke te bemeester.
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Op versoek van lesers verskaf ons die patroon in Engels

Description

The socks are knitted seamlessly in the round, starting with the toe, finishing with the ribbing. You can use double-pointed needles (DPNs), long circular needles with the magic loop technique, or short circular needles.

The socks have a short-row heel and the leg is worked in different colours, using the stranded colourwork technique (also called intarsia).

  • The length can be adapted and the instructions are given in 3 different adult circumference sizes.

Sizes

Adult: a) S, b) M, c) L
For shoe size: a) 37-38 (US 5-6), b) 39-40 (US 7-7,5), c) 41-42 (US 8-9)
Circumference: a) 18,75, b) 20, c) 21,25 cm
Length of foot: a) 23, b) 24,5, c) 26 cm (adaptable)
Height: approx. a) 20, b) 20, c) 20 cm

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Materials

Katia United Socks (75% superwash wool, 25% polyamide): col. 03 (camel, MC): a) 2 b) 2 c) 3 balls; col. 22 (green, CC1): a) 1 b) 1 c) 1 ball; col. 16 (maroon, CC2): a)1 b) 1 c) 1 ball.
Knitting needles: 2,25 mm circular needles with 80 cm cable for the toe, 2,25 mm and 2,5 mm circular needles with 13 cm cable for rest of sock.
1 BOR marker

Abbreviations

BOR – beginning of the round
CC# – contrast colour number
DS – Double stitch (or German short rows)
DPN – Double-pointed needle(s)
K – knit
M1L – make 1 left
M1R – make 1 right
MC – main colour
N1, N2 – needle 1, needle 2
P – purl
R and r(s) – row/round(s)
RS – right side of the work
WS – wrong side of the work

Tension

Using 2,25 mm needles in Stocking stitch: 32 sts and 48 rows = 10 x 10 cm
Using 2,5 mm needles in colourwork Stocking stitch: 33 sts and 42 rows = 10 x 10 cm

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Stitches and techniques

Judy’s magic cast-on

Tubular cast-off

Stocking stitch

Knit to end.

Colourwork Stocking stitch

Knit to end in colours indicated in written instructions or chart.

M1L and M1R increases

M1L, make one left: With the left-hand needle, pick up the strand between the last stitch you have knitted and the one you’re about to knit, bringing the needle from front to back. Then knit into the back of this stitch (twisted) (= 1 st increased, left-slanting).

M1R, make one right: With the left-hand needle, pick up the strand between the last stitch you knit and the one you’re about to knit, bringing the needle from back to front. Then knit into the front of this stitch (twisted) (= 1 st increased, right-slanting).

German short-rows or double stitch (DS)

After each time you turn the work, when stated, create a double stitch (DS) as follows: with the yarn in front of the work, slip the stitch from the left-hand needle to the right-hand needle, bring the yarn back over the right-hand needle and continue knitting/purling (bring the yarn forward if you have to purl).

You will create a double stitch that you must work as a single stitch when you come to it.

Instructions

The socks are knitted in 5 sections: Start with an elongated toe, through a small colourwork section, change to the main colour for the foot, knit the short-row heel, continue with the leg in plain colourwork, and end with the ribbing, using the tubular cast-off.

Both socks are identical.

For the toe, instructions are given for needle 1 and 2 (N1 and N2) if you work with long circular needles; if you want to use double-pointed needles, distribute the stitches evenly and DPN 1 and 2 correspond to N1 and DPN 3 and 4 correspond to N2.

Notes

You can use double-pointed needles (DPNs), long circular needles with the magic loop technique, or short circular needles.

When only one number is included in the instructions, it is valid for all sizes.

DS are worked as a single st in subsequent rows/rounds.

For the toe, instructions are given for needle 1 and 2 (N1 and N2) if you work with long circular needles; if you want to use double-pointed needles, distribute the sts evenly and DPN 1 and 2 correspond to N1 and DPN 3 and 4 correspond to N2.

For the heel: for the BOR to be on the inside of both legs, work the heel on the first a) 29, b) 32, c) 35 sts (right sock) and for the other on the last a) 29, b) 32, c) 35 sts of the round (left sock), by simply knitting the first half of the round in camel MC (colour 3, camel) and remembering where the BOR is, this way the BOR colourwork will be less noticeable when you are wearing the socks.

To maintain the correct tension and for the colourwork to look good: Change to 2,5 mm needles, or one size larger if you need to, for R8-48.

Work the leg of the sock inside out.

Always hold the MC (colour 3, camel) in your dominant hand.

Cross over the yarn floats at the back of the work every 3 sts when that colour is not used for 5 sts (Rs 15, 17, 28, 42, 44).

For a clean BOR and to make the colour changes less noticeable, sl the first st on Rs 7, 23, 25, 34, 38, 50 and 52.

To avoid having lots of ends to weave in, you can carry up the yarn on hold, crossing it over with the MC every 2 or 3 rs at the BOR, without having to cut it each time.

Toe

Using the 2,25 mm needles with 80 cm cable, cast on a) 18, b) 20, c) 22 sts using Judy’s magic cast-on method in green (colour 22, CC1) [a) 9, b) 10, c) 11 sts on each needle].

Place the BOR marker.

R1: k to end of r. R2: *k1, M1L, k to last st on N1, M1R, k1*, rep from * to* for N2. Rep R2 a) 2, b) 3, c) 4 more times. [a) 30, b) 36, c) 42 sts (= a) 15, b) 18, c) 21 sts on each needle)].

R3: rep R1.

R4: rep R2. Rep R3-4 twice more. [a) 42, b) 48, c) 54 sts (= a) 21, b) 24, c) 27 sts on each needle)].

R5: rep R1.

R6: rep R2.

R7: rep R2. Rep R5-7 once more. [a) 50, b) 56, c) 62 sts (= a) 25, b) 28, c) 31 sts on each needle)].

R8-10: rep R1.

R11: rep R2. [a) 54, b) 60, c) 66 sts (= a) 27, b) 30, c) 33 sts on each needle)].

R12-15: rep R1.

R16: rep R2. [a) 58, b) 64, c) 70 sts (= a) 29, b) 32, c) 35 sts on each needle)].

R17-18: rep R1. With green CC1 (colour 22) and camel MC (colour 03).

R19: *k1 in MC, p1 in CC1* rep from * to * to end of r.

R20: rep R19.

Foot

Cut green CC1 (colour 22) and continue with camel MC (colour 03).

R1: K to end of r. Rep R1 until foot measures a) 18,5, b) 20,5, c) 22,5 cm or 4,5 cm less than desired length.

Heel

Without cutting camel MC (colour 03), leave it on hold, and knit the heel in maroon CC2 (colour 16) flat, turning the work when stated using the German short-row technique (DC):

R1 (RS): sl1, K a) 28, b) 31, c) 34, turn.

R2 (WS): DS, P a) 28, b) 31, c) 34, turn.

R3 (RS): DS, K to next DS, turn.

R4 (WS): DS, P to next DS, turn. Continue rep R3 and R4 until there are a) 9, b) 10, c) 11 regular sts between the DS, ending on a RS row (R3) as follows: DS, K a) 9, b) 10, c) 11 to next DS, do not turn the work yet, K2 (work each DS as if it were a single st), turn.

R5 (WS): DS, P to next DS, P2, turn.

R6 (RS): DS, K to next DS, K2, turn. Continue rep R5 and R6 until you have worked all the DS on a RS row (R6) as follows: DS, K to next DS, K2 (there are no DS left), turn.

R7 (WS): sl1, P to end of heel. Cut maroon CC2 (colour 16) and pick up camel MC (colour 03) and return to knitting in the round on the RS of the work.

R8: M1L, K across heel sts, M1R, K to end of r. [a) 60, b) 66, c) 72 sts].

Tip: For the BOR to be on the inside of both legs, work the heel on the first a) 29, b) 32, c) 35 sts (right sock) and for the other on the last a) 29, b) 32, c) 35 sts of the round (left sock), by simply knitting the first half of the round in camel MC (colour 03) and remembering where the BOR is, this way the BOR colourwork will be less noticeable when you are wearing the socks.

Leg

Work R1-52 following the chart.

Tips for maintaining the correct tension and for the colourwork to look good: Change to 2,5 mm needles, or one size larger if you need to, for R8-48.

Knit the leg of the sock inside out. Always hold the camel MC (colour 03) in your dominant hand.

Cross over the yarn that floats at the back of the work every 3 sts when that colour is not used for 5 sts (Rs 15, 17, 28, 42, 44). For a clean BOR and to make the colour changes less noticeable, sl the first st on Rs 7, 23, 25, 34, 38, 50 and 52.

To avoid having lots of ends to weave in, you can carry up the yarn on hold, crossing it over with the MC every 2 or 3 rs at the BOR, without having to cut it each time.

Ribbing

R1: *K1, P1*, rep from* to * to end of r. R2-16: rep R1. Cast off all sts loosely using the tubular cast-off technique.

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